For more photos of our gloxinia hybrids visit the Gloxinia Photo Gallery.

Gloxinia plants can grow quite large – a mature plant can have up to two dozen or more very large blooms (3″ or larger) open at one time creating a fantastic display. Gloxinia can be grown in natural light or on lighted plant stands, and come in a wide variety of colors and flower shapes: single or double flowers with plain or ruffled petals, solid colors, edged flowers, bicolors. (See gloxinia photos)

Gloxinia can be easily grown from seed which is often easier for beginners than mastering the art of propagation by tuber or leaf.

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Gloxinia Temperature and Humidity

Gloxinia prefer temperatures similar to African violets and Streptocarpus. Ideal temperatures are between 70F-75F degrees during the day and 65F-70F degrees at night.

Gloxinia prefer higher humidity than African violets or Streptocarpus, and many growers find that they must supplement the humidity in their grow rooms with pebble trays or a humidifier in order to grow Gloxinia successfully year-round.

Gloxinia Light Requirements

Gloxinia require very bright, indirect light in order to bloom and do not like intense, direct sunlight. On plant stands I use two fluorescent tubes and place plants 10 to 12 inches from the lights for 14 – 16 hrs. per day. Growing under lights keeps plants from getting “scraggly” or leggy from uneven light conditions and ensures that they receive enough light to bloom freely.

Gloxinia Fertilizer

A good rule of thumb is to feed your Gloxinia a weak (1/4 strength) balanced fertilizer solution each time you water. Adjustments may be made depending upon your water composition and growing medium. Stop feeding when you reduce watering in preparation for dormancy (see below).

Tuber Rest Period

The biggest difference between growing Gloxinia and growing African violets or Streptocarpus is that Gloxinia require a period of dormancy or “winter rest” in order to bloom again. Your plant will start to wind down, usually around October or November (in the Northern Hemisphere), with blooms fading more quickly and fewer or no new buds being formed. When that happens, your plant is telling you it’s time to rest. Reduce watering to about half the usual amount and remove dead flower stems.

After three or four weeks at reduced watering gently dig up the tuber, remove any remaining leaves, trim away any dead or rotted roots, and rinse well under tepid water. Place the tuber in a small plastic container or Ziplock® baggie with about a cup of moistened perlite or vermiculite and store in a cool, dark place. The ideal rest temperature would be around 50-55F degrees – the refrigerator is much too cold! Try a protected area like an insulated attic, cool basement, or protected garage. (A maximum/minimum thermometer is ideal for checking conditions over a 24-hr. period.)

Check your tuber for new growth every 30 to 40 days. When new sprouts appear (usually within 90 days or so) it’s time to repot the tuber in fresh medium and enjoy the blooming cycle again.

Helpful resources…

• Minimum/maximum thermometer
• Humidity and pebble trays for plants
• Humidifiers for your grow room
• Tabletop grow lights
• Plant lights

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Double Florist Gloxinia
Double Florist Gloxinia
Double Florist Gloxinia
Lavender Florist Gloxinia
Lavender Florist Gloxinia
Pink Florist Gloxinia
Pink Florist Gloxinia
Pink Florist Gloxinia
Pink Florist Gloxinia
Red Florist Gloxinia
Red Florist Gloxinia
Red Florist Gloxinia
Red Florist Gloxinia
Speckled Florist Gloxinia
White Florist Gloxinia

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Planting Gloxinia Seeds

Gloxinia seeds are tiny
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The seeds were sown in shallow trays (with drainage holes) filled with a 50/50 mix of peat and perlite. Like African violet seeds, gloxinia seeds need light in order to germinate and therefore the seeds were sprinkled on top of moistened medium. Since we have plenty of humidity in our growing area we did not cover the trays. Every day the top of the medium was lightly spritzed with water to keep it moist. The first tiny leaves became visible seven days after planting.

Gloxinia seeds sprouting
after only 7 days
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Transplanting Gloxinia

At eight weeks our larger and faster-growing gloxinia plantlets were ready to be transplanted into their own pots. Since they were growing so quickly we chose 3-inch pots, slightly larger than the plants were ready for. We also potted them with wicks in anticipation of wicking them a little later on. We continued to top-water for another four weeks before moving them to wicking reservoirs.

   
Gloxinia seedlings at 6 weeks and at 8 weeks
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Wicks were inserted and pots filled half-way with clay aggregate (which can be found at any hydroponics store under the brand names Hydroton®, LECA Rocks® and others). Each plantlet was groomed (the cotyledons were removed since they tend to rot when making contact with wet medium), centered in a pot, and covered over with a mix of perlite, peat and clay aggregate.

   
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At fourteen weeks buds began to form at each node where leaf meets stem. Each plantlet set buds at its own pace regardless of relative size. Our first bloomer was the fastest to produce mature buds, but not the largest or most vigorous grower.

      
Gloxinia flower buds forming
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*According to our experience growing the Northeastern U.S. — your experience may vary depending upon location.