click photo to enlarge

This plant is a Burpee container plant that we have neglected to transplant into a hanging basket. Since the plant started flowering and developing strawberries so quickly we thought it best to leave it alone.

Strawberries grown in the house under lights do equally well as strawberry plants in windowsill containers.

Strawberry Seeds

Strawberries can be grown from seed indoors year-round if you provide warmth and light. Growing strawberries from seed is more challenging, but think of all the plants and strawberries you could produce! Nothing beats fresh, home-grown strawberries. You can find an assortment of strawberry seeds here.

Strawberry Pots & Planters

If you prefer to grow strawberries on the deck or patio a strawberry pot or planter is an attractive and efficient method. Here are some planters made just for growing strawberries:

• Strawberry Jars
• Strawberry Pots
• Strawberry Planters and Grow Bags

This successful grow project has been fun and rewarding. We’ve got lots of peppers ripening and more and more flowers opening and being pollinated at the top of the canopy. When the plants run their course we will consider growing grape tomatoes (or currant tomatoes) in the AeroGarden.

The peppers are delicious, by the way

click photos to enlarge

DAY 90:

See also…

• AeroGardens and accessories
• Liquid hydroponics nutrients
• Pepper seeds

Abutilon (also called ‘Parlor Maple’ or ‘Flowering Maple’) respond very well to passive hydroponic grow systems. Below are photos of several abutilon plants at 6 weeks old and later in bloom.

The plants below were first sown in regular peat plugs and grown under lights for 4 weeks before being transplanted into hydroponic pots with rockwool as the medium. A balanced fertilizer (7-7-7) was used for the first four weeks and then a weak hydroponic bloom booster formula (10-15-10) after transplant into hydro pots.

Lighting consisted of two T12 ‘cool’ fluorescent bulbs (“shop lights”) about 10″ from the plants for about 10 hrs. per day. Although wide spectrum, HID or other specialty grow lights may enhance growth, regular fluorescent lighting is all that is necessary to grow abutilon plants hydroponically. Abutilon may also respond well to other hydroponic growing methods (nutrient drip, flood and drain, aeroponics etc.).

(Click to enlarge)

Abutilon ‘Bella’ hybrid	Abutilon in passive hydroponic pot	Growing abutilon in rockwool cubes
Abutilon ‘Bella’ hybrid	Red Abutilon ‘Bella’
Abutilon in passive hydro pot	Abutilon ‘Giant’ hybrid in rockwool cubes
Yellow Abutilon ‘Giant’ hybrid
Abutilon ‘Maximus’ hybrid	Orange Abutilon ‘Maximus’

Recommended Reading on Hydroponic Growing:

How-To Hydroponics

Hydroponics: A Practical Guide for the Soilless Grower

Hydroponics: Soilless Gardening Explained

Hydrofarm Grow Light System

You may be interested in…

• Abutilon seeds
• Other annual seeds
• Hydroponic systems
• Hydroponic pots
• Hydroponic nutrients and fertilizer
• Hydrofarm 2-Foot Jump Start Grow Light System
• More grow lights
• Floral and Botanical Art

Chemicals such as chlorine and chloramine are routinely added to municipal drinking water throughout the U.S. These additives have been shown to inhibit blooming in flowering houseplants and tropical greenhouse plants such as African violets (Saintpaulia), orchids, streptocarpus, bromeliads, poinsettias, amaryllis, geranium, Christmas cactus, rex begonia, Reiger begonia, and coleus, to name a few. Many bonsai and terrarium plants are adversely affected, as well, including foliage plants such as ferns, palms, ficus and aloe.

If your ornamental plants have stopped flowering it could be due to chemical additives in your tap water.

Chlorine Causes Chlorosis in Tropical House Plants

Chlorine may not only inhibit bloom cycles but also can cause leaf burn and chlorosis, or yellowing of leaves, in soft-tissued pllants like African violets and other gesneriads. Fortunately, chlorine is easily removed from water through dissipation (allow the water to stand uncovered for at least 24 hours before watering the plants) or through the use of a chemical dechlorinators which remove chlorine instantly and can be purchased from any aquarium or fish supply store.

Chloramine Affects Ornamental Plants

Chloramine is a combination of chlorine and ammonia that has recently replaced chlorine in many municipal water systems. Chloramine will not dissipate and can only be neutralized or removed through the use of water filtration systems. Since chloramine can also inhibit blooming in ornamentals you should check to see if your municipality uses the chemical additive. If so, allowing water to stand for 24 hours will not make any difference and therefore you might want to consider an inexpensive water filtration system for watering plants.

Water Filters for Watering Indoor Plants

Water purification systems are available in many different styles and price ranges, and conform to varying specifications. For indoor and greenhouse plants a basic kitchen under-counter unit designed to remove chlorine and chloramine will suffice.

» If your plant collection is very small a refrigerator water filter may suffice. Moderate to larger house plant collections requiring several gallons of water at a time would be best served by a larger under-counter unit.

Reverse osmosis units (RO systems) are very popular among ornamental and tropical plant growers since they are designed to remove most municipal additives including chloramine. Carbon block filters and ultraviolet filtration systems are other options.

When comparison shopping for water filters be sure to check the specifications — included will be a list of exactly which chemicals, additives and organisms the unit is designed to remove as well as how long it takes for the unit to filter one gallon of water. Apartment dwellers might consider one of the many low-pressure water filtration units available since water pressure is often a problem in multi-unit buildings.

If you are considering a water filtration system for drinking water you may wish to conduct more in-depth research before making a purchase.

Other Names: Cape Primrose, Streptocarpus saxorum, Streptocarpella saxorum

• Type: Perennial
• Height: 12-18 in. ( 30-45 cm)
• Zone: USDA Zone 9 – 11
• Popular Varieties: Weismoor Hybrids, Windowsill Magic, Dibley’s Series, Bristol’s Series

How to Grow Streptocarpus as a House Plant

Streptocarpus are wonderful house plants, blooming freely throughout the year. Streptocarpus care and cultural requirements are similar to those of African violets with a few minor adjustments. The following are general guidelines for growing Streptocarpus plants in the home.

Temperature

Streptocarpus prefer moderate temperatures in the range of 65 – 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They are not as heat-tolerant as African violets and like more humidity, if possible. Use pebble trays to increase ambient humidity. Streptocarpus leaves tend to get “crispy” on the edges in low-humidity situations or if plants are allowed to dry out between waterings. If that happens and you find it unsightly, you can cut off the tips of the leaves with sterilized scissors without harming the plants. (You can do this with other house plants, as well, such as spider plants and Dracaena which tend to get ‘leaf burn’ at the tips.)

Air Circulation

Adequate air circulation is important for all house plants if you want to avoid problems such as molds and powdery mildew. Space streptocarpus plants apart from each other and add a small fan to rooms with poor air flow.

Light Requirements

Streptocarpus grow well in natural light and prefer some direct sunlight. Three to five hours of morning sunlight works well for most growers. Streps can also be grown successfully on lighted plant stands using regular fluorescent tubes (cool light). Place plants 8 to 12 inches from the lights for 12 to 14 hrs per day. More or less light may be required depending upon other environmental factors and you may want to experiment.

Watering

If you grow Streptocarpus in potting soil, water the plants approximately once a week in winter, twice a week in summer or as required – plants should not be allowed to dry out completely. If you have poor quality tap water or your water contains additives such as chlorine, chloramine, or water softeners we suggest you use filtered or bottled water. Chemical additives can inhibit growth or blooming in flowering house plants and ornamental plants.

Fertilizing

Fertilize your Streptocarpus with a weak solution (1/4 strength) of a balanced fertilizer each time you water. Alternately, use a half-strength solution twice a month.

Growing Streptocarpus from Seed

Streptocarpus seeds are extremely small – one ounce of strep seed contains approximately 2 million tiny seeds. Streptocarpus have the same germination requirements as African violets, Sinningia speciosa (Florist Gloxinia) and other gesneriads. Strep seeds need light in order to germinate and should not be covered over with soil. Follow these instructions to successfully grow streptocarpus plants and similar gesneriads from seed.

click to enlarge

Recommended Reading:

Breeding Ornamental Plants

Helpful resources…

• Streptocarpus seeds
• Seed starting supplies
• Domed propagators
• Heat mats
• Grow lights

Blc. ‘Caribbean Orange Bowl’

Catteya

Unknown Cattleya hybrid

Diaca. Chantilly Lace ‘Twinkle’

Dtps. ‘Orglades Puff’

Paph. ‘Lynleigh Koopowitz’

Paph. ‘Macabre’ x sib

Paphiopedilum

Paphiopedilum

Phal. ‘Chromium Emperor’

Phal. ‘Penang Girl’

Fragrant phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis

Multifloral phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis

Striped phalaenopsis hybrid

Phalaenopsis

Spotted phalaenopsis hybrid

Phalaenopsis

Yellow phalaenopsis hybrid

Phalaenopsis Hybrid

Pink Phalaenopsis Hybrid

Pink phalaenopsis hybrid

Slc. Tsiku Vanessa

Hypoestes

Mixed varieties of hypoestes

Hypoestes ‘Pink Splash’

Pink spots on green leaves

Hypoestes ‘Red Splash’

Red spots on dark green leaves

Hypoestes ‘Rose Splash’

Pink spots on dark green leaves

Hypoestes ‘White Splash’

White spots on dark green leaves